asian food: Started on a whim, now a hit September 11, 2006 I AM back at Joo Chiat again. Not just because I'm a Katong-ite, but because Joo Chiat is one of those places that you can't get enough of. Of late, the regular crackdown on the area has dulled the 'buzz' and affected some fly-by-night makan stall opportunists. But there are those who have stayed on or have dared to set up new makan ventures and they are the reason why folks like me still flock to Joo Chiat. It is no big secret that Singapore-style fish head curry was made popular by an enterprising Indian bloke, Gomez. He once operated a bustling little stall opposite the old Rex cinema area off Serangoon Road. There's also this other story that soldiers of the old Punjabi regime here created the dish. Then I came across Mr Tan Keng Hock some 10 years ago, who once sold bak kut teh and was doing roaring business along Joo Chiat Road. One fine day in 1977, without a reason, Mr Tan decided to sell fish head curry. His first attempt was a disaster. 'I just bought fish curry powder from the market, added water, vegetables and fish head,' Mr Tan recalled. 'The customers around Katong were not kind in their comments. Some said it should not be sold.' Some gave sincere feedback. But all pointed to one fact - get a good powder, prepare a solid rempah and lift the piquancy quotient with assam. But the best suggestion he received was that he should use coconut milk. Mr Tan could not recall who told him that, but I suspect it was some coconut milk-loving Nonya (although Peranakan-style assam ikan kepala does not use coconut milk). Mr Tan did just that. HE PAYS MORE FOR FISH He also used fresh snapper heads (he pays a 40 per cent premium to get his suppliers to select for him), and steamed the vegetables and fish head (instead of blanching it in curry). This retains the flavour and colour of the fish and texture of the greens. I have devoured their fish head curry many times before and it has always been consistent. The fish is fresh, white and soft while the curry is punchy and smoothened with a hint of coconut milk which does not overwhelm. Even the style of not flooding it with too much curry is consistent (sometimes I throw my weight around and ask for more, but I guess you have to pester!). The steamed lady fingers (okra), brinjals, onions and tomatoes retain their qualities and are delightfully textured, unlike others that end up like mush. They don't even bother to serve it with papadums or on a banana leaf. Mr Tan said: 'When I first started selling the dish, my brother, Keng Guan, who helps out at night, was not keen to sell it. ''He wasn't impressed with the recipe. But when customers started asking for it, he relented.' Today, despite an old signboard that touts bak kut teh, their fish head curry has become their numero uno money spinner. Of course, he does not let me in on just what kind of powder is best. But I prodded. 'I found out from my suppliers that there were four types of powders - a natural mix, some blended with jagong (corn), a fried and a non-fried version.' All work well but Mr Tan is most fond of the fried version as it's not too earthy and goes well with his recipe. One very popular version of his curry often requested for lunch is, strangely, the curry fish tail. Mr Tan does this with the meaty and sweet ikan kurau (threadfin), but stocks are usually limited and it's a good idea to call ahead for orders. If you find sifting through eyeballs and gills for your culinary pleasure disgusting, this will please you. The Indians have had a shot at this, and so did the Chinese and Malays (with their assam kepala ikan). Anybody out there with an Eurasian devil's fish head curry? It'll then become the most democratic dish in Singapore! Makansutra, founded by KF Seetoh, is a company that celebrates Asian food culture and lifestyle. It publishes food guides in and around the region, produces food television series, develops interactive mobile content and services, operates food courts and eateries, organises food tours and events, and consults on culinary concepts. It operates the breezy and open-air retro push cart hawker centre, Makansutra Gluttons Bay, at the Esplanade Mall. Makansutra offers its searchable listings with discounts in its 3G mobile services for subscribers to local telcos. Its 6th edition of Makansutra Singapore 2007 goes on sale now. Visit www.makansutra.com.