asian food: White wines good candidates for next fad THE NEWS TRIBUNE Published: August 2nd, 2006 01:00 AM Americans love a fad. What’s in vogue today is passé tomorrow. We’ve gone from Hula-Hoops and bobby sox to body piercings and tattoos. Why should wine be any different? Syrah has been cranking up the interest meter for reds, so what is the next faddish white wine coming down the pike? Riesling? Pinot gris? Viognier? I’ve never understood why Riesling has not taken off like a Saturn rocket. It is an extremely versatile wine that pairs well with a host of foods. Perhaps the soft, sweet, flabby, New World versions turn people off. While Alsace and Germany excel in this arena, many people are intimidated by the confusing labels and terminology. Don’t let the labels derail you. Be adventuresome. Ask your local retailer for help in selecting a wine. You will be rewarded. While we are on this subject, let the local winemakers know how you feel about their Rieslings. Ask them why there is no acidity. Eroica is one of the best New World versions on the market, yet the 2005 bottling barely has enough acidity to balance the 1.6 percent residual sugar. OK, if not Riesling, is it pinot gris? And what do we call it anyway – Tokay pinot gris, pinot grigio or pinot gris? All three are correct. Tokay pinot gris is frequently used on Alsace labels, while pinot grigio is Italian-influenced. Pinot gris is versatile as well. It pairs wonderfully with shellfish. Fortunately for us, Oregon and Washington make some respectable wines from this grape to accompany our Dungeness crab. Viognier? You say you’ve never even heard of the grape, much less tipped a glass of the wine? Viognier is a prized white wine that excels in Condrieu, a northern Rhône wine region of France. It is a fickle grape. It is difficult to grow, and it challenges the winemaker to put quality in the bottle. The viognier grape thrives in the warmer microclimates of California and Washington as well. A few producers have managed to tame the grape, producing some very fine wines indeed. Food matches include Asian stir-fried dishes and chicken curry. This week’s wines 2005 Eroica, Riesling, Columbia Valley, Washington, $22, 25,000 cases: A special partnership between German and American winemakers, this is usually at the top of Washington Rieslings. Light gold in color, it has a nose packed with pure peach aromas. Off-dry at 1.6 percent residual sugar; the acidity just manages to carry it. You’ll get a blast of peaches in the mouth as well, which lingers endlessly on the palate; 89/89. 2004 WillaKenzie, Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, Oregon, $18, 3,173 cases: There is a lot going on here, with peaches, apricots, citrus fruit, papayas and floral notes doing a tap dance on the nose and palate. Balanced and expressive, this should pair well with lobster bisque or crab cakes. The 2005 version is due out shortly; 90/91. 2005 Cougar Crest Winery, Viognier, Walla Walla Valley, Washington, $20, 735 cases: Floral characteristics are enhanced by generous pear and honeysuckle notes. The acidity level begs for Asian food; 89/90. 2004 McCrea Cellars, Viognier, Ciel du Cheval, Red Mountain, Washington, $28, 520 cases: A blend of 82 percent viognier and 18 percent Roussanne. McCrea managed to do a good job despite a challenging vintage. Stone fruit and orange blossoms abound, with nice minerality; 90/90. Dr. Randy Buckner lives in Steilacoom and is a family practitioner in Olympia. Wines are rated on a 100-point scale, with the first number indicating quality and the second relative value. Write to him at randybuckner@att.net, or visit his Web site, www.wineloverspage.com/bucko.