asian food: TASTE & TELL: Asian C blends different styles and makes it work By CHRISTINE ORDWAY The Patriot Ledger Asian C, the long-awaited successor to Red Sauce, is now open in Hingham, offering Asian cuisine. Open since Aug. 25, Asian C is already creating a buzz. Specializing in fusion-style, pan-Asian cuisine, Asian C is in Hingham’s Queen Anne’s Corner, near the intersection of routes 53 and 228. Previously, the site was occupied by Red Sauce and before that Naked Fish - two restaurants that never really caught on with diners. Asian C is the third restaurant to open there within six years. Although the location hasn’t had a great history of success, I suspect that things are about to change. Good Asian food is not abundant in this part of the South Shore, and Asian C is not your typical Asian restaurant. The menu features an expansive selection of Chinese and Japanese dishes, with a couple of Thai and Malaysian selections. Many styles of Chinese cuisine are represented on the menu, and the Japanese section includes a variety of sushi. While I am generally wary of restaurants that take on more than one style of cuisine, Asian C makes it work. The dining areas have been redecorated and are attractive, with an understated, contemporary flair and none of the stereotypical Asian décor. We were seated in the main dining area, which also features a handsome bar. Though stylish, the overall result is comfortable and casual. Although I had my mind set on Chinese food, we decided to sample the sushi. We requested a single a la carte order of sake ($4.75), which is a salmon nigiri sushi. We were served a plate bearing two pieces of beautifully presented sushi that tasted even better than it looked. It was so good that we added an order of tekka maki ($4.95), the familiar, seaweed-wrapped tuna roll. Very fresh and tasty. As an appetizer, we selected the chicken lettuce wraps with pine nuts ($10.95). Our server arrived with four neatly trimmed iceberg lettuce leaves, which she spread with hoisin sauce and topped with a mixture of minced chicken, rice noodles and pine nuts. We were each served two of the lettuce wraps, and I was impressed with the service. It’s more common to be presented with a plate of lettuce and a dish of minced chicken, and to put the two together on your own. These are the sort of touches that distinguish Asian C from other Asian restaurants in the area. Our dinners were beautifully presented on white platters and they looked as good as they tasted. My selection featured shrimp stir-fried in a garlicky yu hsiang sauce, along with wood ears and red and green peppers ($13.95). The shrimp were large and not overcooked, and the spicy sauce was terrific. My companion chose the Shanghai boneless duck ($13.95). It featured roasted duck stir-fried with snow peapods, black mushrooms and baby corn in a spicy Shanghai sauce. The rich sauce and flavorful mushrooms were a perfect complement to the duck. After dinner, to our surprise, we were presented with a complimentary dessert of ‘‘fried’’ ice cream drizzled with chocolate sauce. Although I asked, it was unclear whether this was a special treat for Asian C’s first customers or a standard finish to the meal. Much better than fortune cookies, it was a welcome end to an excellent meal. Just as welcome were the hot towels our server gave us at the conclusion of our dinner. Again, it’s little things like this that set Asian C apart. My only criticism would be that the background music was a commercial radio station. While the upbeat music on 98.5 FM was fine and a nice change from the usual Asian soundtrack, the commercials and DJ were annoying. An audio library would solve the problem. For those looking for lunch in the area, Asian C also offers an all-you-can-eat buffet, which includes soup, appetizers, sushi, entrees and fresh fruit. Although Asian C’s two predecessors were unable to achieve success in Queen Anne’s Corner, I’m willing to bet that the third time’s the charm. Asian C is off to a great start. Asian C 48 Whiting Street (Route 53) Hingham (781) 740-0688 Sunday - Thursday 11:30 am - 10:00 pm Friday - Saturday 11:30 am - 11:00 pm Luncheon buffet served daily 11:30 am - 2:30 pm Major credit cards accepted Handicapped accessible Plenty of parking The weekly restaurant review, ‘‘Taste & Tell,’’ is written after anonymous visits to area restaurants by Patriot Ledger food critics. Copyright 2006 The Patriot Ledger Transmitted Wednesday, September 06, 2006