Asian Food: Trefethen deserves attention Of California wineries, the one owned by John and Janet Trefethen is among the best. Yet Trefethen Vineyards doesn't get the attention it deserves. Consider the 2005 Trefethen Estate Dry Riesling, produced from grapes grown in the Oak Knoll district of Napa Valley. This user-friendly white, filled with refreshing citrus flavors, is the perfect summer wine. For merlot advocates in search of a really good choice (there are a few), the 2002 Trefethen Merlot is a winner. With its rich structure and long finish, it reminds me of the best merlots produced in the Pomerol region of France. And for the epitome in cabernet sauvignon, you can hardly find one better than the 2001 Trefethen Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. Only 731 cases of this superb red were produced, so it's not going to be in many shops. But those who search will be rewarded once they remove the cork and taste. SERVE WITH: The riesling is a favorite aperitif (few are those who won't like it). It's also a nice choice with spicy Asian food and cold tuna or chicken salad. The merlot is best with duck or beef. The reserve cabernet sauvignon calls for prime rib, rib eye steak and prime beef tenderloin. by Bob Hosmon Wine columnist